Centella Reversa™: what it is and how it differs from conventional Centella asiatica

If you have ever used Korean skincare, Centella asiatica will probably sound quite familiar.

Cica creams. Centella serums. Ampoules built almost entirely around the plant.

K-Beauty has played a major role in making it internationally famous.

But the fact that an ingredient is traditional does not mean it cannot also become a platform for innovation.

And this raises an interesting question:

what is the difference between using a conventional Centella asiatica extract and working with its cells through biotechnology?

The answer lies both in how the ingredient is obtained and in what we are trying to obtain from the plant.

What is Centella asiatica?

Centella asiatica is a plant traditionally used in several Asian cultures and now widely incorporated into skincare.

Also commonly known as cica or tiger grass, it has become particularly associated with formulas designed to soothe the skin, support repair and care for sensitive or compromised skin.

In conventional cosmetics, Centella is generally used in the form of extracts obtained directly from plant material.

Depending on the extraction process, certain compounds naturally present in the plant can be concentrated.

So far, nothing particularly unusual.

But biotechnology allows us to ask a different question.

Instead of simply asking:

“What does this plant contain?”

we can also ask:

“What do its cells produce and release into their surroundings?”

Centella asiatica and K-Beauty: a very close relationship

Korean skincare has played an important role in the international popularity of Centella asiatica.

Entire brands and product ranges have built their identity around this ingredient, particularly in formulas aimed at sensitive, irritated skin or a compromised skin barrier.

And it makes sense.

K-Beauty has demonstrated particularly well that botanical tradition and technological development can coexist.

But finding advanced innovation around Centella does not necessarily mean always looking towards Korea.

Centella Reversa™ was developed by Vytrus Biotech in Spain.

The plant species is the same.

The way we work with it is not.

What is Centella Reversa™?

Centella Reversa™ is a technology developed by Vytrus Biotech to act on processes related to fibroblasts, the extracellular matrix, regeneration and cellular ageing.

Put more simply, its interest is not merely in “adding Centella” to a formula. It lies in studying how certain biological signals produced by its cells can act on mechanisms involved in maintaining the dermis.

And to understand what makes it different, we first need to look at how it is obtained.

Centella Reversa™ starts with cells from Centella asiatica grown in laboratory cultures.

With a conventional extract, we use the plant itself and extract certain compounds that are present in it.

Centella Reversa™ takes a different approach: plant cells are cultured and the technology works with some of the molecules those cells produce and release into their surroundings.

Vytrus includes this approach within its Phyto-Peptidic Fractions (PPF) technology.

The name may sound rather technical, but the idea behind it is simpler: instead of focusing only on what can be extracted from the plant, we can also work with molecules produced by the plant's own cells.

So what do we find among those molecules?

A complex biological material that includes what biology calls the secretome.

Put simply, the secretome is the collection of molecules that cells produce and release into their surroundings.

In Centella Reversa™, these include a wide variety of peptides, proteins and extracellular vesicles, including an exosomal fraction.

This is why Centella Reversa™ is not simply a “more concentrated” form of Centella.

It is a different way of working with the same plant: one that looks not only at compounds that can be extracted from it, but also at molecules produced by its cells.

Thousands of peptides produced by plant cells

Vytrus analysed Centella Reversa™ using peptidomic techniques.

The analysis identified more than 10,000 different peptides and more than 1,000 types of proteins.

A significant proportion of the characterised peptides also consisted of relatively short amino-acid chains.

That represents considerable molecular diversity.

But this is where it is worth repeating a rule that applies to much of skincare:

a large number does not, by itself, demonstrate greater efficacy.

10,000 peptides sounds impressive.

What matters is understanding the activity of the complete technology containing that collection of biological signals.

→ If you want to explore how peptides work and why they do not all do the same thing, read Peptides for Skin: What They Are, How They Work and Why They Are Not All the Same.

Extracellular vesicles and exosomes: what role do they play?

The Centella Reversa™ secretome also contains plant-derived extracellular vesicles, including a fraction that Vytrus has specifically characterised as exosomal.

You can think of extracellular vesicles as small structures released by cells that can carry or be associated with different biological molecules.

Including peptides.

Vytrus has identified hundreds of peptides associated with the exosomal fraction studied in Centella Reversa™.

This helps explain why, in this case, it does not make much sense to think of “peptides” and “exosomes” as two completely separate worlds.

They form part of a more complex biological system containing peptides, proteins and extracellular vesicles.

But here too, it is important to avoid oversimplification.

The fact that a molecule is associated with a vesicle does not automatically demonstrate greater skin penetration or efficacy.

The evidence has to come from the specific technology and the studies carried out on it.

→ We explore this distinction in more detail in Exosomes in Skincare: What They Are and What They Can Do for Skin.

What evidence exists for Centella Reversa™?

The interesting part begins when we move from characterising what the technology contains to studying what it actually does.

Vytrus Biotech evaluated Centella Reversa™ in vitro on human dermal fibroblasts.

In one of its assays, the technology reached values equivalent to 134% of the control for procollagen I and 126% for elastin.

These results are relevant because collagen and elastin are components of the extracellular matrix and are closely related to the structural properties of the dermis.

But they need to be interpreted correctly.

These are data obtained in a cellular model.

They do not mean that applying a cream automatically increases skin collagen by 34% or elastin by 26%.

What they show is that the technology demonstrated activity on these parameters under the experimental conditions studied.

→ You can explore the relationship between fibroblasts, the extracellular matrix and skin structure in Skin Firmness: What Really Determines It and Why We Lose It with Age.

What does Centella Reversa™ have to do with cellular senescence?

Vytrus also studied the technology on fibroblasts undergoing replicative senescence.

These models evaluated parameters related to proliferation, morphology, stress response and regenerative capacity.

In a scratch test, Centella Reversa™ achieved 72% regenerated area after 48 hours under the experimental conditions.

And this is worth stressing:

this does not mean that a cream regenerates 72% of our skin in 48 hours.

It is an in vitro result obtained using fibroblasts cultured in the laboratory.

What makes the research interesting is that it allows us to look at ageing from a broader perspective.

Not only how much collagen we produce.

But also how the cells responsible for maintaining our dermis behave.

→ You can explore this subject further in Cellular Senescence and Skin: What It Is and How It Relates to Ageing.

From Centella Reversa™ to Cell Reversa

All of this explains why Centella Reversa™ eventually became part of Cell Reversa Firming Cream.

When we began developing the formula, we were not simply looking to add Centella asiatica because it was a recognised ingredient or because K-Beauty had turned it into a trend.

We were interested in something else:

a technology that allowed us to approach ageing through the behaviour of the cells responsible for maintaining the structure of the dermis.

Centella Reversa™ was particularly interesting because it had been studied in relation to fibroblasts, the extracellular matrix, regenerative capacity and models of cellular senescence.

But Cell Reversa is not simply “a cream with Centella Reversa™”.

The formula combines this technology with biomimetic peptides selected for complementary mechanisms, alongside the other ingredients needed to create a complete, effective and well-tolerated formula.

The logic can be summarised like this:

Centella Reversa™ brings biological diversity: a complex secretome containing thousands of peptides, proteins and extracellular vesicles, including an exosomal fraction.

Biomimetic peptides bring precision: defined signals selected for specific mechanisms.

So the objective is not to accumulate ingredients.

It is to combine different technologies when each one has a clear role within the same formulation strategy.

Ingredient and finished formula: two levels of evidence

At this point, an important distinction needs to be made.

Centella Reversa™ and Cell Reversa are not the same thing.

Centella Reversa™ is a cosmetic technology developed by Vytrus Biotech.

Cell Reversa Firming Cream is the finished cosmetic formula developed by UMOA, incorporating this technology alongside other active ingredients.

This means that the studies carried out on each answer different questions.

	Centella Reversa™	Cell Reversa Firming Cream
What is it?	A technology developed by Vytrus Biotech.	A finished cosmetic formula developed by UMOA.
What does it contain?	Material obtained from Centella asiatica plant cell cultures.	Centella Reversa™ + biomimetic peptides + the rest of the formulation.
How has it been studied?	In vitro on fibroblasts and parameters related to the extracellular matrix, regeneration and senescence.	As a finished formula on skin for 56 days in 24 participants.
What does it tell us?	How the technology behaves in relation to specific biological mechanisms under the conditions studied.	What results are observed when the finished product is actually used on skin.

This distinction matters because a result obtained with an ingredient in a cellular model cannot simply be transferred to the finished product.

For example, the fact that Centella Reversa™ achieved 72% regenerated area in a scratch test does not mean that Cell Reversa regenerates 72% of the skin.

They are different studies designed to answer different questions.

What results did Cell Reversa achieve?

Once the complete formula had been developed, the next question was precisely this:

what happens when Cell Reversa is actually used on the skin?

To evaluate this, Cell Reversa was studied for 56 days in 24 participants.

Among the results, the mean roughness of the analysed wrinkle decreased by 9%, a statistically significant change, while 96% of participants showed an improvement in this parameter.

In addition, 95.83% said their skin felt firmer and 100% perceived an improvement in skin texture and hydration.

The finished-product study did not measure cellular senescence or cellular regeneration.

And that distinction matters.

We therefore have two complementary levels of information:

• Centella Reversa™: in vitro research that helps us investigate mechanisms related to fibroblasts, the extracellular matrix, regeneration and senescence.
• Cell Reversa: results obtained with the finished formula after 56 days of use on skin.

One helps us understand why we select certain technologies.

The other allows us to evaluate what the formula we actually apply to our skin can achieve.

For us, that is where things become particularly interesting: formulating from an increasingly precise understanding of how skin changes over time, and then verifying what the finished product actually achieves.

A strategy focused particularly on skin regeneration, the extracellular matrix, firmness and elasticity.

Discover Cell Reversa and explore the complete formula .

Frequently asked questions about Centella Reversa™

What is Centella Reversa™?

Centella Reversa™ is a technology developed by Vytrus Biotech from cultured Centella asiatica cells. It has been studied in relation to fibroblasts, the extracellular matrix, regeneration and cellular senescence.

What are Phyto-Peptidic Fractions?

Phyto-Peptidic Fractions, or PPF, is the name Vytrus uses for this technological approach. Put simply, it allows researchers to work with biological material produced by cultured plant cells, including a wide variety of peptides, proteins and extracellular vesicles.

What is a secretome?

A secretome is the collection of molecules that cells produce and release into their surroundings. In Centella Reversa™, these include peptides, proteins and extracellular vesicles.

Is Centella Reversa™ the same as a Centella asiatica extract?

No. Both start from the same plant species, but the processes are different. A conventional extract is obtained directly from plant material, whereas Centella Reversa™ starts from cultured Centella asiatica cells and uses plant biotechnology.

What is the difference between Centella Reversa™ and conventional Centella asiatica?

The main difference lies in how they are obtained and the biological material involved. While a conventional extract focuses on compounds present in the plant, Centella Reversa™ also works with molecules produced and released by cultured Centella asiatica cells.

Does Centella Reversa™ contain plant-derived exosomes?

The technology contains plant-derived extracellular vesicles and includes a fraction characterised as exosomal. Vytrus has also identified hundreds of peptides associated with this fraction.

Does Centella Reversa™ contain peptides?

Yes. Using peptidomic analysis, Vytrus identified more than 10,000 different peptides and more than 1,000 types of proteins in the complete technology.

Does having more than 10,000 peptides mean it is more effective?

Not necessarily. The number of peptides describes the molecular diversity of the technology, but it does not in itself demonstrate efficacy. What matters is the activity observed in studies carried out on the complete technology.

What evidence exists for Centella Reversa™?

Vytrus Biotech has studied Centella Reversa™ in vitro on human dermal fibroblasts, including parameters related to procollagen I, elastin, regenerative capacity and models of replicative senescence.

Does Centella Reversa™ increase collagen in the skin?

In an in vitro fibroblast assay, Centella Reversa™ reached values equivalent to 134% of the control for procollagen I. This should not be interpreted as a direct 34% increase in skin collagen after applying a cosmetic product.

What does Centella Reversa™ have to do with cellular senescence?

Vytrus studied the technology on fibroblasts undergoing replicative senescence, evaluating parameters related to proliferation, morphology, stress response and regenerative capacity.

Is Centella Reversa™ better than conventional Centella asiatica?

There is little value in claiming absolute superiority. They are different approaches and should be evaluated according to their composition, production process, supporting evidence and the objective of the formula in which they are used.

Are Centella Reversa™ and Cell Reversa the same thing?

No. Centella Reversa™ is a technology developed by Vytrus Biotech. Cell Reversa Firming Cream is UMOA's finished cosmetic formula, incorporating Centella Reversa™ alongside biomimetic peptides and other components of the formulation.

What results did Cell Reversa achieve?

In the finished-product study conducted over 56 days in 24 participants, the mean roughness of the analysed wrinkle decreased by 9%, a statistically significant change, and 96% of participants showed an improvement in this parameter. In addition, 95.83% said their skin felt firmer and 100% perceived an improvement in skin texture and hydration.

Which UMOA product contains Centella Reversa™?

Cell Reversa Firming Cream combines Centella Reversa™ with biomimetic peptides in a formula developed around skin regeneration, firmness and elasticity.