Ceramides in Skincare: What They Are & How They Work
Ceramides are essential lipids that help repair the skin barrier, reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improve skin comfort. This quick guide explains how they work, where they act, and which types are most effective for sensitive skin.
Contents
- What are ceramides?
- Why ceramides matter for skin
- How ceramides work
- Ideal concentration in formulas
- Where ceramides really act
- Most common types (comparison table)
- Which ceramide to choose for your skin
- FAQs
What are ceramides?
Ceramides are lipids (sphingolipids) that, together with cholesterol and fatty acids, form the intercellular “cement” of the stratum corneum. They are a key component of the skin’s lipid mantle, keeping the outer layer cohesive and minimizing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
When depleted, the skin loses moisture easily, becomes more reactive, and feels tight or rough.
Why ceramides matter for skin
- Strengthen the barrier: improve cohesion between corneocytes.
- Lock in moisture: reduce TEWL and enhance hydration.
- Calm and protect: a healthier barrier reacts less to external stressors.
- Smooth and comfort: surface feels softer, more flexible, and resilient.
How ceramides work and why they improve the barrier
Ceramides replicate lipids that the skin naturally recognizes as its own. By replenishing the “bricks and mortar” of the stratum corneum, they restore lamellar structure, reduce water loss, and prevent irritant penetration. The result: healthier, more stable, and luminous skin.
Well-balanced skincare formulas with ceramides + cholesterol + fatty acids reorganize lipid layers and effectively seal in moisture. Their effect is further enhanced by humectants (e.g., hyaluronic acid, glycerin) and soothing agents (e.g., bisabolol).
What’s a reasonable concentration in skincare formulas?
More isn’t always better: in skin barrier formulas, balance and the quality of the emulsion system matter more than total percentage. Total “barrier lipid” content (ceramides + cholesterol + fatty acids) in the 1–5% range is common for daily use. Severely compromised skin may benefit from higher lipid phases, as long as the texture remains comfortable.
Modern moisturizers often use biomimetic blends (meaning the skin recognizes them as its own), with total ceramides often below 1%. What truly matters is the ratio and delivery system (vehicle, lamellar structure, etc.) — not maximizing a single percentage.
Where ceramides actually work in the skin
As mentioned, ceramides act primarily in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis.
Technical detail:
The stratum corneum is made up of corneocytes (dead cells without nuclei) immersed in a lipid matrix composed of roughly ceramides (~50%), cholesterol (~25%), and free fatty acids (~15%). Ceramides are synthesized in deeper layers (granular and spinous), but accumulate and organize in the stratum corneum, where they play their structural role.
Which ceramide to choose for your skin?
There is no single “best” ceramide — each skin type needs its own balance of repair, hydration, and comfort. Their effectiveness depends on the type, ratio, and condition of your skin barrier.
For example, dry or flaky skin benefits from structural ceramides that minimize water loss, while sensitive or reactive skin prefers calming molecules or precursors that transform gradually within the skin.
Here’s a quick comparison of the most common ceramides and their main benefits:
| INCI | Common Name | Key Benefits | Ideal Skin Type | Main Layer / Level |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ceramide EOS (Ceramide 1) | Ceramide 1 | Supports lipid lamellae cohesion; reinforces barrier. | Dry, sensitive, post-irritation. | Deep Stratum corneum (intercellular matrix) |
| Ceramide NG (Ceramide 2) | Ceramide 2 | Locks in moisture; improves comfort and smoothness. | Dry / dehydrated. | Medium Stratum corneum |
| Ceramide NP (Ceramide 3) | Ceramide 3 | Reinforces barrier; improves texture; very versatile. | Sensitive / reactive. | Superficial Stratum corneum |
| Ceramide AP (Ceramide 6-II) | Ceramide 6-II | Elasticity; promotes a flexible skin texture. | Normal to dry. | Superficial Stratum corneum |
| Ceramide EOP (Ceramide 9) | Ceramide 9 | Emollient and smoothing effect. | Rough / uneven texture. | Deep Stratum corneum |
| Glucosyl Ceramide | Glucosyl ceramide (precursor) | Improves hydration; supports lipid homeostasis. | Sensitive / reactive. | Integrates in the stratum corneum; synthesized from deeper layers. |
| Phytosphingosine | Phytosphingosine (related lipid) | Barrier support; soothing and antimicrobial properties. | Sensitive / irritation-prone. | Contributes to ceramide synthesis; acts in stratum corneum nad granular |
Our choice for delicate skin
In our Skin Barrier Ginkgo Gel Cream we combine Ceramide 3 (NP) and Glucosyl Ceramide because they work synergistically while keeping the texture exceptionally light.
The first seals in hydration and reinforces the lamellar structure of the stratum corneum, while the second stimulates the skin’s natural ceramide regeneration, providing progressive, long-lasting support.
This synergy is enhanced with bisabolol to calm inflammation, and squalane + glycerin to restore flexibility and comfort.
The result: a formula that repairs, hydrates, and protects while respecting the rhythm and sensitivity of your skin.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do ceramides work if I have oily skin?
Can I use ceramides with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, or retinoids?
How long before I notice results?
What’s the difference between ceramides and “pre-ceramides” like Glucosyl Ceramide?
How do I know if my skin needs ceramides?
About the author
Mafalda Soto is a pharmacist and co-founder of UMOA Cosmetics. With over 15 years of research into sensitive and vulnerable skin — including the study of albinism — she creates evidence-based, respectful skincare. Founder of Beyond Suncare (recognized by the United Nations as a “Best Practice”), she leads UMOA’s scientific and social impact strategy under the Care to Care philosophy.
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