Exosomes in Skincare: What They Are and Why They’re Transforming Skin Health
Exosomes are one of the most advanced topics in skincare. More than an “ingredient”, they are a cell-to-cell communication system: they help skin to regenerate, calm itself, and recover its natural balance. In this guide you’ll see what they are, how they work, the key benefits, and how UMOA uses them in our next-gen formulas.
From regenerative medicine to skincare
Interest in exosomes comes from regenerative medicine, which aims to repair or replace damaged tissue. Since the early 2000s, these vesicles—able to transmit information between cells—have been shown to activate natural repair processes without using whole stem cells. Today, the same technology is applied to skin: exosomes “teach” the skin how to repair, calm, and keep itself balanced.
What are exosomes
They are lipid nanovesicles (30–150 nm) released by cells. They carry biological messages (RNA, proteins, lipids, growth factors) that modulate the activity of recipient cells: they stimulate collagen, reduce inflammation, and help restore the skin barrier.
Once released into the cellular environment, an exosome travels to another cell and fuses with it. It then delivers its cargo, changing the recipient cell’s behavior: it may increase collagen synthesis, lower inflammation, speed up tissue repair, or reinforce a damaged barrier, depending on the signals it carries.
Unlike classic cosmetics acting from the outside, exosomes coach the skin from within.
Practically speaking, an exosome is a “letter” one cell sends to another with repair instructions.
This is a shift in paradigm: don’t replace the skin—enhance its natural intelligence.
Key benefits
- Softer lines and wrinkles → fibroblast activation and collagen synthesis.
- Improved texture and radiance → support for cell renewal.
- Calming and less inflammation → stronger barrier function.
- Tissue repair after stress, radiation, or pollution exposure.
- High tolerance → a strong option for sensitive/reactive skin.
Is there a classification of exosomes?
Yes—scientifically they are organized by different criteria: biological origin, size/biogenesis and cargo/function. Here’s a clear breakdown 👇
1) By biological origin
The most common classification in cosmetics and biomedicine:
| Exosome type | Origin | Typical use | Comment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Human-derived exosomes | From human stem cells (mesenchymal, epidermal) or fibroblasts | Regenerative medicine; in-clinic aesthetic procedures | Highly effective, but complex regulatory pathway for cosmetics (often medical-grade) |
| Plant-derived exosomes | From plant stem cells (rice, green tea, centella asiatica, ginseng, etc.) | Advanced and natural skincare | Biocompatible, safe and ethical; enable cell communication without immunological risk |
| Bacterial exosomes (bacterial extracellular vesicles) | From probiotic strains (Lactobacillus, Bifidobacterium) | Prebiotic skincare; barrier repair | Support microbiota and cutaneous immunotolerance |
| Synthetic / biomimetic exosomes | Biotechnological creations mimicking natural exosomes | Research assays; next-gen biocosmetics | Allow controlled composition and stability; still uncommon in retail cosmetics |
2) By size and biogenesis (technical)
Scientifically, exosomes belong to the broader group of extracellular vesicles (EVs). Within EVs there are three main types:
| Vesicle type | Approx. size | Cellular origin | Particularity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Exosomes | 30–150 nm | Released from late endosomes | Best-studied biological messengers |
| Microvesicles | 100–1000 nm | Direct budding of the cell membrane | Involved in inflammatory processes |
| Apoptotic bodies | 500–2000 nm | Released during apoptosis | Eliminate cellular debris; not used in cosmetics |
3) By cargo or primary function
Exosomes can also be grouped by what they carry—and therefore the “message” they send to skin:
| Functional type | Predominant cargo | Action on skin |
|---|---|---|
| Regenerative exosomes | Growth factors, proteins, microRNA | Stimulate fibroblasts, collagen and elastin |
| Antioxidant exosomes | Enzymes and polyphenols | Neutralise free radicals; reduce oxidative stress |
| Calming/repair exosomes | Anti-inflammatory peptides; regulatory cytokines | Soothe sensitive skin; reduce inflammation and redness |
| Hydrating/barrier exosomes | Structural lipids; natural ceramides | Reinforce stratum corneum; reduce TEWL |
Exosome size: why it matters
Exosomes are nanometric vesicles (typically 30–150 nm). Size directly influences how they interact with skin:
| Approx. size | Behaviour | Cosmetic implications |
|---|---|---|
| < 50 nm | Higher ability to reach superficial epidermal layers. | Improves cell communication and local regeneration. |
| 50–100 nm | Optimal size: good biological stability and signalling activity. | Favours keratinocyte and fibroblast activation. |
| > 150 nm | Lower diffusion; more fragile to oxidation. | Useful in occlusive/surface-repairing formulas. |
The ideal cosmetic range is 50–100 nm—good bioavailability, stability and signalling without systemic penetration risk.
Active concentration: the most decisive parameter
Saying “contains exosomes” is not enough. What matters is the active amount and its functional integrity (that RNA, proteins and lipids remain intact).
- Typical effective cosmetic levels: 0.001%–0.1% active exosomes.
- < 0.001% → largely symbolic presence.
- > 0.2% → risk of formula instability or loss of exosome viability.
Purity matters too: some products use “exosome lysates” (fragments) instead of intact exosomes, reducing real biological potency.
Responsible innovation means keeping exosome communication capacity, using meaningful concentrations, and ensuring biocompatibility with sensitive skin.
Are exosomes compatible with natural cosmetics?
Yes—provided the origin is ethical/biotechnological and they’re integrated into clean, safe formulas.
At UMOA we work with the plant exosome Centella Reversa Pycnet®, a biotechnologically enhanced version of classic Centella asiatica:
- Origin: biotechnology from Centella asiatica.
- Size: ~50–120 nm (stable, bioavailable range).
- Concentrated active fractions: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid → collagen support, calming/antioxidant action, barrier reinforcement.
It acts at epigenetic and cellular levels, modulating genes involved in repair and type I/III collagen synthesis, accelerating natural regeneration without irritation or overstimulation.
Do exosomes work alone or should they be combined?
Exosomes aren’t like adding hyaluronic acid or vitamin C. Their main role is to deliver biological signals, not to supply a single active. Think of them as smart biological carriers. When combined with peptides, niacinamide or humectants, results amplify and last longer.
Best-pairing actives with exosomes
| Category | Ideal actives | Combined effect |
|---|---|---|
| Regenerative / Anti-ageing | Signal peptides (e.g., palmitoyl tripeptide-38, palmitoyl tripeptide-1), niacinamide | Stimulate fibroblasts and collagen with high tolerance. |
| Hydrators / Barrier | Hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin, squalane | Reorganise lipids; improve long-lasting comfort. |
| Calming / Antioxidants | Bisabolol, ginkgo, polyphenols, prebiotics | Modulate inflammation; strengthen defences. |
| Brightening | Vitamin C, niacinamide | Improve tone and luminosity without irritation. |
What’s the right age to use exosomes?
Exosomes don’t follow an “age rule”—they respond to skin needs: environmental stress, loss of firmness/glow, post-sensitisation repair, etc. Age is less relevant than the level of cellular stress/dysfunction.
| Skin state | Ideal combination | Desired effect |
|---|---|---|
| Sensitive or re-balancing | Exosomes + bisabolol | Soothe, repair and reinforce the barrier |
| Dehydrated or stressed | Exosomes + hyaluronic acid + ceramides | Deep hydration and restored elasticity |
| Tired or dull | Exosomes + vitamin C or biomimetic peptides | Revitalise and enhance glow |
| Mature or photo-aged | Exosomes + niacinamide + pro-collagen peptides | Reinforce firmness and skin density |
If we had to generalise, from around age 30 they often make a visible difference—when skin starts showing less firmness, less luminosity, or signs of cellular fatigue—though they can help earlier or later depending on context.
In short, when your skin needs more than hydration—it needs re-education.
UMOA: innovation with purpose
At UMOA we’re finalising a product that leverages the regenerative power of exosomes to achieve skin that feels firmer, more elastic and more radiant, with enhanced self-repair. We combine them with biomimetic peptides in synergy: regenerative tech + smart peptidotherapy.
Formulation is progressing with very promising results. Want updates? Join our newsletter and we’ll keep you posted.
Frequently asked questions
Are they safe for sensitive skin?
Do they replace other actives?
When will I see results?
Can I use them with retinoids?
About the author
Mafalda Soto is a pharmacist and co-founder of UMOA Cosmetics with 15+ years studying and caring for one of the world’s most delicate skins: albinism. She founded the NGO Beyond Suncare in Africa, recognised by the United Nations as a “Best Practice”.
At UMOA, her vision blends scientific innovation with real empathy—effective, respectful skincare with purpose.
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