Have We Gone a Little Crazy with Skincare Trends?

Every week, a new ingredient appears promising to revolutionise our skin. A device we never knew we needed. A routine that adds three more steps to the one we already had. And, of course, someone ready to explain why everything we were using before is suddenly outdated.

We used to need a moisturiser. Now it feels as though we need a master's degree just to understand our skincare routine.

And no, the problem isn't that skincare is evolving. Quite the opposite. We've never known so much about how our skin works, or had so many possibilities for taking care of it.

The problem begins when we confuse innovation with necessity. When every new launch becomes a must-have, and looking after our skin starts to feel like a race in which we're always one step behind.

Are we actually taking better care of our skin? Or have we simply learned to consume more?

Contents

• Viral skincare: when the algorithm enters our bathroom
• From salmon DNA to beef tallow
• How many ingredients does a good formula need?
• What does our skin really need?
• We're a skincare brand too
• Two products. One routine that makes sense
• Frequently asked questions

Viral skincare: when the algorithm enters our bathroom

Let's start with morning shed. In case you haven't come across this trend yet, it involves going to bed wearing an entire collection of beauty products and accessories — patches, masks, facial tapes and lifting bands — and then filming yourself removing them one by one the following morning.

The idea is that all these overnight treatments will help us wake up looking better. And, as often happens on social media, the ritual of removing each layer has become part of the entertainment.

Some products have specific functions, while the usefulness of others is far more questionable. But what's particularly interesting is the concept itself: even sleeping seems to have become an activity that requires a beauty strategy.

Then there are the ten-, twelve- or even fifteen-step routines. Cleanser, toner, essence, exfoliant, serum, another serum, mask, moisturiser… And repeat.

Do more products mean better results? Not necessarily.

Combining too many active ingredients can increase the risk of irritation, particularly when mixing exfoliants or treatments that our skin doesn't tolerate well. And the more products we use, the harder it becomes to identify which one might be causing a reaction.

And just when we thought our bathrooms were fully equipped, along came at-home facial devices.

Microcurrents, LED masks, radiofrequency and even devices marketed as HIFU for home use.

It's important to make a distinction here. Some technologies have applications supported by scientific research, but that doesn't mean every device works in the same way or delivers the same results. Effectiveness and safety depend on the technology, the device and how it's used. Devices that deliver energy into deeper tissues require particular caution.

Because there's a difference between benefiting from technological advances and turning our bathroom into an improvised aesthetic clinic.

From salmon DNA to beef tallow: what's happening with skincare ingredients?

If you thought skincare routines were getting complicated, wait until you look at the ingredients.

One of the latest stars of viral skincare is salmon PDRN, popularised on social media under a rather more attention-grabbing name: "salmon sperm".

But what exactly is it?

PDRN is made up of purified DNA fragments, generally obtained from certain salmonid species. Scientific interest in this ingredient isn't new: it has been investigated for its potential role in tissue repair and regeneration, particularly in medical applications and wound healing.

Some research findings are promising, but we still need larger, more rigorous studies to better understand its effectiveness across different applications. Above all, it's important to distinguish between results obtained through medical treatments and the benefits a cream or serum applied to the skin may offer.

Because an ingredient having scientific potential doesn't mean that every formula containing it has demonstrated the same results.

And that's precisely the point. When an ingredient becomes fashionable, suddenly every brand seems to need it in its products. But cosmetic innovation shouldn't work that way. Before adding an active ingredient to a formula, we should ask what benefit it provides, what evidence supports it and whether it genuinely addresses a skin need.

PDRN may be an interesting technology. What matters is that research leads the way, rather than trends alone.

And while one part of the industry looks towards biotechnology, another seems determined to travel back in time.

Enter beef tallow, which has become a facial skincare trend among those advocating the virtues of natural, ancestral ingredients.

Beef tallow contains lipids that can act as emollients or occlusives. But its natural origin doesn't automatically make it a better, more effective or more suitable option for every skin type.

What's curious is that two seemingly opposite trends — cutting-edge science and a return to ancestral ingredients — can end up selling us exactly the same idea:

This is what your skin was missing.

And perhaps it wasn't missing anything at all.

How many ingredients does a good formula really need?

Our obsession with accumulating things doesn't end with the number of products we use. It's also made its way inside the packaging.

Increasingly, we see formulas highlighting how many ingredients they contain, as though thirty active ingredients were necessarily better than five.

But cosmetic formulation doesn't work like that.

A long INCI list doesn't mean a product is bad. Many ingredients perform essential functions, helping preserve the formula, maintain its stability or create a pleasant texture.

But it doesn't necessarily mean the product is more effective, either.

What matters isn't how many ingredients a product contains, but what they do, how they work together and what results the finished formula delivers.

Because your skin isn't counting ingredients. And it certainly doesn't know how many views the latest viral serum has received.

What does our skin really need?

Amid all these skincare trends, there's something we sometimes forget: our skin already knows how to do quite a lot on its own.

It's a living organ, with its own mechanisms for protection, regulation and repair. Our skin barrier, for example, plays a fundamental role in limiting water loss and protecting us against external aggressors.

Taking care of it doesn't mean constantly intervening. It means understanding what it needs and when it needs support.

For many skin types, a relatively simple routine based on appropriate cleansing, moisturising when needed and sun protection can be an excellent starting point.

Others may benefit from specific treatments, depending on their characteristics and goals.

The key isn't to use fewer products as a matter of principle. Nor is it to use more.

It's about choosing the ones that genuinely make sense for our skin.

And understanding that introducing a new ingredient doesn't always mean improving something that's already working.

If you'd like to learn more about how our skin protects itself, discover what the skin barrier does and how to care for it.

We're a skincare brand too. And yes, we see the irony.

At UMOA, we develop skincare products. We research ingredients, work on new formulations and deeply believe in the potential of science to improve skin health and care.

So it would be rather contradictory to criticise the obsession with new products while pretending we're not part of this industry ourselves.

But precisely because we're part of it, we believe it's worth asking a few questions.

Are we developing something that delivers a real benefit? Does it address a specific need? Can we explain why it deserves a place in someone's skincare routine?

Innovation makes sense when it improves something. Not simply when it adds something.

And perhaps we should also learn to de-influence ourselves a little.

That doesn't mean giving up on discovering, experimenting with or enjoying skincare. It means regaining the ability to question what we see, understand what we use and make our own decisions.

Because just because something goes viral doesn't mean our skin asked for it.

This reflection is also at the heart of our campaign "Fewer Must-Haves. Better Choices.", which asks how much of what we consider essential for our skin responds to a genuine need, and how much is driven by the trends surrounding us.

Because questioning what we consume is also part of learning to take better care of our skin.

And because sometimes, better care starts with a surprisingly simple decision: not adding anything else.

Two products. One routine that makes sense.

At UMOA, we believe a good skincare routine doesn't have to be complicated. What matters is combining products that address specific needs and work together in a complementary way.

That's why our approach to hydration and skin barrier care brings together two products:

• Goji Nectar Serum: a serum designed to provide hydration and complement daily skincare.
• Skin Barrier Ginkgo Gel Cream: a moisturising gel cream with ceramides, formulated to help support the skin barrier and improve skin comfort.

Two complementary steps for anyone looking for a hydration and skin barrier routine without adding unnecessary products.

It's not about using more. It's about choosing better.

Frequently asked questions about skincare trends

Is using too many skincare products bad for your skin?

Not necessarily. The number of products in a routine doesn't determine whether it's suitable. What matters is that each product addresses a specific need, the formulas are compatible and the skin tolerates them well.

Using too many treatments without a clear purpose can increase exposure to potentially irritating ingredients, particularly when combining exfoliants or other intensive actives.

More products don't necessarily mean better results.

How many steps should a skincare routine have?

There's no universal number of steps. For many people, a simple routine based on cleansing, moisturising according to their skin's needs and sun protection is a good starting point.

Additional treatments can be introduced when there's a specific goal and a clear reason to use them.

What is morning shed, and does it work?

Morning shed is a viral trend in which people film themselves removing patches, masks, facial tapes and other beauty accessories they've worn overnight.

Whether these products are useful depends on the individual item or practice. Not all have the same scientific evidence or provide the same benefits. Each should be evaluated separately rather than assuming that a more elaborate routine delivers better results.

What is salmon PDRN, and does it work in skincare?

PDRN consists of purified DNA fragments, generally obtained from salmonids, and has been investigated for its potential role in tissue repair.

Some research findings are promising, but more studies are needed to determine its effectiveness across different cosmetic applications.

It's important to distinguish between evidence from medical treatments and results demonstrated by a specific cosmetic formula. Effectiveness depends on factors such as formulation, concentration and method of administration.

Is beef tallow good for your face?

Beef tallow contains lipids that can act as emollients or occlusives, helping soften the skin and reduce water loss.

However, its natural origin doesn't guarantee that it's superior to other cosmetic ingredients or suitable for every skin type.

Formula quality, stability and skin tolerance are important factors when evaluating any product.

Do at-home facial devices actually work?

It depends on the technology and the specific device. Some applications of LED light, microcurrents and radiofrequency have been studied, but not all devices deliver the same results.

There are also important differences in their safety profiles. Devices that deliver energy into deeper tissues require particular caution and shouldn't be used without checking their indications and safety requirements.

Can a simple skincare routine be effective?

Yes. A simple, well-designed routine can meet the needs of many skin types.

Effectiveness depends on product selection, formulation, consistency and suitability for the individual, rather than accumulating as many steps as possible.

The best routine isn't necessarily the longest one. It's the one that addresses your skin's real needs.